Coming Back

This post about my trip back to the States is long overdue, very much because of the aftermath of the trip itself.  Having traveled to five different cities in two different hemispheres in the course of just over two weeks takes its toll, even when your trip is for pleasure.  My inner journo has been stifled by exhaustion, illness, seasonal confusion, followed by the desperate rush to finish everything I was unable to accomplish while I was in my post-travel daze.  But I write this now with an open schedule and a clear head, newly readjusted to the gravitational pull of the Southern Hemisphere.

A few observations from the flip side:

American money IS really boring.  I had heard that before but could never really relate.  It also feels substantially less robust than Aussie money.  Perhaps currency reflects culture in more ways than intended.  But you certainly spend a lot less of it.  My idea of a reasonable price is so far from what it used to be.  Shopping at certain outlets and chain stores felt almost like getting away with theft.  I guess there is something to be said for a mass consumerist culture.  Although, taxes and tipping sucks a bit.  Go easy on the foreigners who might shortchange you.  They probably just come from a culture with a more straightforward billing system.

Driving on the other side of the road only seemed a little strange when I was on a new road.  It created a particularly strange sensation while on a road lined with eucalyptus trees though.  Coincidence?  I think not.

Changing seasons on the way there was not particularly hard, but coming back to winter is quite a depressing experience.  If the cold doesn’t get to you, then the lack of light does.  We came back to Sydney on the shortest day of the year after having been in a city where it was still light at 8pm.  Luckily the days can only get longer from here.

My Many Homes:

Going back to LA felt the same way it always has.  I guess I’m used to coming home again, even if the trips happen less frequently than they used to.  But this was the first time I have ever gone back to New York and not been returning to my own humble abode.  I can only describe the sensation of going back like that of reading a book or seeing a movie that you loved as a child but haven’t been exposed to for many years.  You remember the major plot points, the characters and how it ends (usually with a slice of pizza at 2am on a Sunday) but you’ve forgotten little details here and there.  I’d see certain street corners, overhear conversations on the subway, get trapped in the stampede of a deli lunch rush and find myself thinking, oh yeah, I remember that.

It was also louder, more congested and just generally more insane than I remember.  I guess after living there for enough time you develop the ability to shut out everything but what you need and want to hear, see and even smell, then lose it after spending some time away.  But I muscled through overstimulation with the iron will (and stomach) of a true New Yorker.  Yeah, I’ve still got it.

The bagels are amazing, the cocktails are generous, the pizza is rich and delicious and the coffee sucks.  But it tastes like no other coffee in the world.  That slight hint of burnt metal and taste of grounds that have spent weeks at the bottom of the machine is a flavor I fondly associate with the Big Apple, ode de health violations.  I also thought I walked plenty in Sydney, but I realize now that no creature on earth walks as much as a New Yorker.  It took wearing holes in one pair of shoes and my only pair of feet before I got my city legs back.  Aussies will be able to swim around the planet when the polar ice caps melt but until then they’ll never beat a New Yorker in an endurance walk.

But perhaps the most surprising thing about going back home was the fact that it made me really feel how much time has passed since I’ve been back.  When you move to a new country, how you feel and what you experience tends to change every few weeks.  Excitement becomes culture shock, because excitement again.  New experiences become everyday life.  Odd becomes normal and eventually your new environment becomes your new home and before you know it an entire year has passed.  But for the people you left behind, the people whose lives now have one less person in them, they seem to have felt every day pass.  You can tell by how tightly they hug you when they finally see you again.  You can see it in the tears they can’t hold back when you have to say goodbye for another year.  It suddenly becomes much harder to leave than you thought it would be.

But because of all those people, both East coast and West, I now have more than one place to call home.  As hard as it is to be separated by time zones and hemispheres, I know I can not only always come back but that I will also always be welcomed.  I’ve felt so much at home in two vastly different cities now, that  when people here ask me where I’m from I have trouble deciding what to say.  And I wouldn’t feel that way without the people I have so much trouble prying myself away from.  So I consider myself lucky, exceptionally lucky.  And if I continue to be as lucky as I am now, maybe I’ll have a third city to call my home.

Canadian?

Nine times out of ten, that’s how the question will be asked.  But every once in a while you meet a brave Australian who dares to ask “American?” thus risking the potential wrath of a proud Canook, a show of disdain which I hope has died down since the end of the Bush Jr. era.  But I wouldn’t know, you’d have to ask a Canadian.

I always ask if that’s why they start with the Canadian question, but most don’t admit it.  They simply say they just can’t tell the difference between the accents.  But without a tell tale “about” pronounced “aboot”, neither can I.  Despite the fact that I have picked up on many subtleties of the Australian accent since arriving here, including the tendency to say “reckon” a lot, end many statements with a cheery upward inflection and pronounce the letter H with an audible huff, I wouldn’t be able to tell a New Zealander from an Aussie unless they were wearing something bearing their respective flags which, I should mention to the Aussies, many Canadians do.

So, it’s not the confusion of the two countries that throws me off, as much as it is the way in which the question get’s asked.  It’s always either “Canadian?” or “American?”.  I can’t remember the last time I was asked “Where are you from?”.  Even when were were being asked by every Aussie we encountered “Are you on holiday?”  the follow up question was usually “Canadian?”. I don’t think I have ever asked someone where they were from by suggesting a country first.  Chinese?  Mexican?  Outer Mongolian?

Perhaps that’s because I’m keenly aware that I have no idea what subtle differences exist in the accents of certain countries and the many varied regions within them.  Even back in the States, I wouldn’t be able to guess what state someone was from unless they spoke with an accent worthy of an SNL skit or a Simpson’s character.  Although “hella” is a dead give away from a Northern Californian.  I guess you do pick up on these things after extended exposure.  I might be able to guess which continent you are from, but even then I’d be taking a stab at it.  I might even be wrong if I offered up a hemisphere, so I prefer to stick to the simple “where are you from?”.

I should mention that I have heard more than one Brit insult the Australian twists on English by saying “whose language is it?”.  Funny, I never heard that joke in the States.  Maybe they’ve finally let go of those colonies, or just desire to cut ties with us entirely.  Our neighbors to the North certainly want to.  I only hope they don’t feel about us they way these Kiwis feel about my new neighbors.

Flight of the Concords – Jermaine sleeps with an Australian

Watch the whole video.  The accent joke is the best.

A Little Wiser from the Walkabout

It has been just over three months since I moved my life down under.  So, I figured now would be a good time to reflect on the vast, cross cultural wisdom, my new life in Oz has blessed me with.

Rocket = Arugula
Capsicum = bell pepper.  While pepper = a chili or hot pepper or (in slang) a hot woman.  And if you are hitting on a pepper you are probably tuning her.
Museli = granola, oats, cereal and almost any other form of grain heavy breakfast food
Prawns = Shrimp, always.  I don’t think Aussies believe in eating the prawn’s scrawny cousin, the shrimp.  Not enough meat.
Tasty = cheese.  I agree, cheese is tasty.
Stuffed up = Fucked up.  I kind of like the middle school is charm of that expression.

Cadbury in addition to being a prolific candy, also means lightweight.  If I wasn’t a cadbury already, then $8 for single shot beverages has turned me into one.

Soda and candy has real sugar in it, and costs a lot more.  Ditto for the pasta sauce.  The candy tastes great, but I haven’t gotten used to the pasta sauce yet.

Go out early for breakfast, and early for lunch.  If you want something decent, then breakfast ends at 11am and lunch ends at 2:30.  Good thing It’s impossible to drink enough to leave you so hungover that you wake up craving breakfast at 3pm.  At least you can still get great coffee all day.  And if you see a breakfast special that comes with a coffee, get it.  Unlike the itty bitty cup of swill you might get from a NYC street vendor, coffee out here means your choice of cappuccino, latte, or a flat white, long black, short black and all those other forms of coffee the Aussies seem so proudly addicted to.

When going out to eat, don’t expect great service, unless you’re at a Thai restaurant.  At first I thought there was something to simply paying your waiters a good minimum wage, and not having them work for tips, but I’m starting to think monetary motivation has more benefits.  Luckily there are a lot of Thai restaurants, and the food is as good as the service.

You don’t go to a hospital or end up in a hospital, you are simply in hospital or at hospital.  And you don’t watch or play sports, just sport.  Maybe, like Ta instead of that’s alright, these became part of the language in the interest of saving time.  Although, they say take away, instead of take out.  That has more letters and syllables.

Australians invented the dual flush toilet.  If you don’t see a symbol to indicate that one is a full flush and the other is a half flush, then the left should be half and the right should be full.  There are also on and off switches on all the outlets, so you can turn off anything you are not using without unplugging it.  Americans need to get on board with that.  No matter how much I want to save the environment, there was no way I was going to crawl behind several pieces of furniture just to unplug my cell phone charger.  Now I have a phone that reminds me to unplug it, and an easy to reach off switch for the plug.

Train tickets have to be purchased before you get on the train, and must cover the extent of your final destination.  But ferry tickets are purchased at circular quay, regardless of weather your journey started or ended there.  Unless, of course, you are going from one mid trip destination to another, then you are expected to pay on the boat.  Some buses will sell tickets on board, and others require prepaid tickets, which can only be purchased of random vendors sprinkled throughout the city.  And if that isn’t confusing enough, try getting somewhere, anywhere, without having looked at a map first.  Trust me, you won’t make it.  Hooray for google street view.

Shopping isn’t the impossible task that everyone made it out to be.  There is no gap, and your standard “made in china” fare is actually very expensive (ironic considering we’re a lot closer over here).  But there are malls in abundance, chain stores everywhere, and no shortage of ways to part with money for the sake of fashion.

People also dress much better out here.  Perhaps all the uniformed schools, instill in them and unbreakable habit of putting on a tie every day of the week.  Sydneysides also dress up to go out.  Black is standard, along with short skirts and high heels for women.  Normally when you see that in NY it means they are under-aged.  They are, of course, the same age here, only legally drunk.

But amongst all the things I have learned about Sydney life over these past few months, are still a few urban mysteries that tickle my interest.  For example, why does the occasional bar bathroom offer a hot iron for women’s hair?  For $2 you get 10 minutes of heat out of a hair straightener.  And this is frequently in bathrooms that don’t even have the typical tampon, candy and condom machines.  Don’t tell me that many women remember to take condoms, but not to finish straightening their hair before a night out on the town.

I also see an extraordinary number of people barefoot.  These sightings were averaging once a week, but have started to go up with the rise in Celsius.  This isn’t just by the beach, but often a great distance away from any shoreline, pool, park, or other area where barefootedness might be expected.  I’m sure there is not a single soul in the city who doesn’t own thongs (and by that I mean flip flops).  Are they really that much effort to put on before heading out for your morning coffee?

But perhaps the greatest mystery Australian life still holds for me, is one I might never solve.  Why DO people eat Vegemite?